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An Interview with AW2 Soldier LTC Hoffmeister – Part II Dec 02, 2009

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June 16, 2009 - AW2 Soldier SPC Dave Shebib, AW2 Solder LTC Marc Hoffmeister, and Bob Haines (left to right) unfurl the Military Order of the Purple Heart guidon, proudly honoring their fellow combat wounded from the summit of Denali.

AW2 Soldier LTC Marc Hoffmeister was recently named by National Geographic as one of their “Adventurers of the Year” for his successful climb of Mount McKinley (also known as Denali) as part of Operation Denali. Hoffmeister was the team leader of a group of wounded warriors who set out to climb the 20,320 ft. summit in order to symbolize their strength and perseverance over adversity.

In April 2007, LTC Hoffmeister was severely injured while serving in Iraq when an IED outside of Al Hillah blew up his Humvee. Hoffmeister was evacuated to Germany and then back to the U.S. where he had eight surgeries on his arm and endured months of painful rehabilitation.

Recently, I had the pleasure of chatting with LTC Hoffmeister about his experiences as an outdoor adventurer. Click here to read the rest of the article from National Geographic and click here to vote for AW2 Soldier LTC Hoffmeister in the National Geographic Reader’s Choice Awards for “Adventurer of the Year.”

Below is the second part of my interview with LTC Hoffmeister, please click here to read Part I.

1) How has being an outdoor adventurer prepared you to transition back to the Army?

I believe that every challenge I face in the back country makes me a better Soldier and leader. Whether climbing or skiing local peaks, summiting Denali, or completing a 100 mile Arctic Mountain Bike race across frozen Alaska, I’m forced to constantly control fear, evaluate risk, balance it against my ability and equipment, then mitigate that risk and move forward. It’s not that different than what we do in the military really — except that it’s what I do for fun!

2) Your wife, Gayle, has obviously been a big factor in your recovery. Do you mind sharing how your relationship has made you stronger?

Life is hard in the military these days, no reason to sugar coat it. I was wounded during my third deployment. The stresses on families of repeated deployments are hard enough and the added stress of being wounded and the subsequent recovery process make for some long days. My wife has sacrificed an incredible amount of herself to create the conditions for me to recover as much as possible. From sacrificing all of her leave time to be at my hospital bedside, to caring for me during home recovery and shouldering the full burden of maintaining the home and family while I struggled to get my feet back under me, she did it all.

She is an amazingly strong woman and her efforts go largely unrecognized. She is the unsung hero that has enabled me to achieve my dreams and I am forever indebted to her. I strive each day to try and give back even a portion of what she has given me even though she doesn’t expect or want me to.

3) What does your AW2 Advocate think of you climbing mountains and engaging in other outdoor events? How has your AW2 Advocate supported your adventures?

The AW2 program, specifically Michael Hamm, enabled me to build the team by getting the word out in the beginning. AW2 is an important communal forum where we can bond, share experiences, and build opportunities. Operation Denali is an example of that.

4) I’ve heard that when you aren’t climbing mountains that you work for a foundation that provides service dogs to injured Soldiers and Veterans. Can you describe what your foundation does and what it means to you to support other wounded warriors?

It’s not a foundation in itself, but a program we’ve set up with the local chapter of the Military Order of the Purple Heart, the State of Alaska Department of Corrections, and the Hiland Mountain Correctional Center. The inmates at the correctional center participate in a rehabilitative program in which they train service dogs for the disabled. We work with the program to match wounded warriors in need of a service dog and facilitate the dog’s training for the specific needs of the individual. The program is a great example of Veterans helping Veterans. I think it’s important that we all recognize the generosity of the many people and programs out there to assist us in our recovery.

When we are able, it is important to contribute to the fight and find ways to help our fellow wounded, even if it’s as simple as helping a nonprofit group recruit Soldiers for a local fishing trip or a dinner meal. All AW2 Soldiers and Veterans should all strive to inspire those in the early phases of recovery that there is light at the end of the tunnel, that life is worth living and that there is always a way to overcome the obstacles which confront you.

5) Anything else you would like to add?

As an avid outdoorsman, I live by a simple maxim, “When in doubt, go up!”

It’s a pretty good analogy for life if you think about it. Going up is never easy, but once you get to the top, the view is exceptional, you can clearly see the route back home, and way down can be a hell of a lot of fun if you pick the right path.

And speaking of going up and getting other AW2 Soldiers and Veterans involved – while on Denali, we met several instructors from the Army Mountain Warfare School in Jericho, VT. One of their instructors, Bert Severin, is also Director of Sunrise Adventures, www.sunriseadventuresports.com, and is hosting the annual ice climbing festival at Smuggler’s Notch in Jeffersonville, VT, from January 29-31, 2010. This is a huge, civilian event, details are on the website, and Bert would like to extend the invitation to any interested Wounded Warriors to participate. The clinic is free to wounded warriors and Sunrise Adventure Sports will provide the climbing equipment and training to get you up the ice. I will post all the details in an upcoming blog, but if the thought of putting axe to ice gets your heart pumping and you’re ready to go now, call Bert at (802)730-2978 and get on the list. You’ll have to work transportation, food and lodging, but Bert and his crew are eager to help out and get you on the mountain. So get out there and experience the freedom of the hills!

The appearance of external hyperlinks does not constitute endorsement by the United States Department of Defense of the linked web sites, or the information, products or services contained therein. For other than authorized activities such as military exchanges and Morale, Welfare and Recreation (MWR) sites, the United States Department of Defense does not exercise any editorial control over the information you may find at these locations.

An Interview with AW2 Soldier LTC Hoffmeister – Part I Dec 01, 2009

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The Operation Denali team poses for a photo before their climb. Front row, left to right: Marc Hoffmeister, Gayle Hoffmeister, Todd Tumolo, Dave Shebib, and Matt Nyman. Back row, left to right: Bob Haines, Jon Kuniholm, Matt Montavon, and Kirby Senden. Photo courtesy of LTC Marc Hoffmeister

AW2 Soldier LTC Marc Hoffmeister was recently named by National Geographic as one of their “Adventurers of the Year” for his successful climb of Mount McKinley (also known as Denali) as part of Operation Denali. Hoffmeister was the team leader of a group of wounded warriors who set out to climb the 20,320 ft. summit in order to symbolize their strength and perseverance over adversity.

In April 2007, LTC Hoffmeister was severely injured while serving in Iraq when an IED outside of Al Hillah blew up his Humvee. Hoffmeister was evacuated to Germany and then back to the U.S. where he had eight surgeries on his arm and endured months of painful rehabilitation.

Recently, I had the pleasure of chatting with LTC Hoffmeister about his experiences as an outdoor adventurer. Click here to read the rest of the article from National Geographic and click here to vote for AW2 Soldier LTC Hoffmeister in the National Geographic Reader’s Choice Awards for “Adventurer of the Year.”

Below is the first part of my interview with LTC Hoffmeister, so be sure to check back tomorrow for Part II.

1) How does it feel to be named to National Geographic’s “Adventurer of the Year” list?

It’s both an unexpected and awesome feeling to be recognized on a national scale and among such an impressive group of recipients, but more than anything it feels a bit awkward to be singled out for something that was a team accomplishment. The team members of Operation Denali came together to do a singularly remarkable thing and it took everyone’s effort and courage to achieve it. I am proud of the honor but want everyone to recognize that every member of our team is an Adventurer of the Year — their willingness to embrace the challenge of our mission was inspirational.

2) What motivated you to get back into outdoor adventures?

My wife Gayle pushed me early on in my recovery to get back to what we love to do in the outdoors. Whether she knew it or not (and I believe she did), the act of getting back into the mountains was spiritually cleansing and rehabilitative. It gave me the motivation to regain my independence.

3) What were some of the challenges that your team in Operation Denali faced during the climb?

We faced the same challenges of any high altitude expedition: heavy loads, long movements, frigid cold, hypoxia due to altitude, and we faced all of those on top of managing limitations from our wounds.

Several of us have compromised nervous systems from our injuries which made us more susceptible to cold injuries and required diligence to avoid further injury. Managing technical tasks and gear distribution within the team in order to be as efficient as possible despite our injuries was important to try and maintain the health of each team member throughout the expedition.

4) Did you apply your military training and leadership skills to motivate your fellow team members during the climb?

I believe we all did at various times. During any physically strenuous endurance event or expedition, everyone has highs and lows. As a team, we bonded tightly enough to recognize who was having a good day and who was not. Those doing well would quietly pick up the slack for the others by carrying an extra piece of gear, digging in the cache of food/equipment, laying out or recovering ropes or helping to set the other rope team’s tent. We did this without any discussion, it was habit born of our shared experiences in the military and in combat.

5) Describe your thoughts when you reached the summit. What was your reaction to achieving a life-goal that you set for yourself long before your injury?

Probably not the answer you expect, but the summit was almost anticlimactic, partly because the weather had enveloped us in a swirl of snow but more so because the full team did not stand on top with us. It lent truth to the old adage that it was more about the journey than the summit. To better answer your question, let me quote my summit day journal from the climb:

“It’s been a long year’s journey to this point, but we did it. Only half the team managed to summit, but it took the entire team’s effort to make that happen. It truly saddens me that the full team didn’t top out, especially Gayle, my inspiration for the climb. At the same time, I’m struck by the parallel of our team’s efforts with that of our wounded warriors and fallen heroes. They may not have seen the fight thru to the end, or finished their combat deployment, but it was their sacrifices that enabled their unit’s success and our nation to win its wars and bring everyone else back home. I also think of the 53 Fallen Paratroopers and 356 wounded Spartans of my Brigade’s deployment to Iraq and I whisper a prayer for them and those already back out in the fight. This climb was for them in many ways and I hope they will somehow know that two Arctic Wounded Warriors of the 4th Brigade Combat Team (Airborne), 25th Infantry Division Spartans stood atop Denali in recognition of their sacrifice, bringing closure to a mission now complete.”

Remember to check back tomorrow for Part II of our interview with AW2 Soldier  LTC Hoffmeister.

The appearance of external hyperlinks does not constitute endorsement by the United States Department of Defense of the linked web sites, or the information, products or services contained therein. For other than authorized activities such as military exchanges and Morale, Welfare and Recreation (MWR) sites, the United States Department of Defense does not exercise any editorial control over the information you may find at these locations.

Behold, The Bastard Child Of Crocs: Crosskix Apr 24, 2013

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Just in case you were wondering what the next thing will be in ugly footwear now that Crocs and Ugg are all played out. Let us introduce you to Crosskix. If their Kickstarter campaign is successful, you'll be seeing these ugly things on a trail near you.

And We're Back..... Apr 24, 2013

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Took a couple of months off to recharge the batteries. Time to get back into the swing of things. Like writing good cliche filled blog posts. Lets start with something easy. A surf movie trailer. Cannibals. Ladies in bikinis. What's not to love?

Dale Webster Surfs His 13,598th Day In A Row Dec 20, 2012

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Every couple years we like to check in with Dale, who for the last 37 years has surfed every day. On November 24th, his birthday, he had surfed for the 13,598th consecutive day. Either he's got a really bad case of obsessive compulsive disorder or he just loves surfing. Kind of makes it hard to vacation anywhere outside of the coasts with this kind of hobby. Via Surfy Surfy.
Tony Hawk Takes Criticism Well Dec 19, 2012

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Funny episode in the world of social media. Seems Tony Hawk posted this picture of himself skating in his backyard skate bowl on Instagram. Only to be bombarded with criticism for riding with no helmet. His response?

"For those that say I endanger my child: it's more likely that you will fall while walking on the sidewalk than I will while skating with my daughter."

Classic. Via News.com.au.

POC Helmets, Now With Overpiced Beats by Dr. Dre Dec 18, 2012

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Beats by Dr. Dre are a case study in how excellent marketing and brand building can build a global phenomena out of a mediocre product. Kind of like Lance Armstrong or Ed Viesturs. For the price, we can't think of a more over-priced, over-hyped product. Particularly given the same sound quality can be found in headphones at a fraction of the cost. Nevertheless, anything Beats related is probably marketing gold, so it makes sense that POC came out with a helmet with integrated Beats. And for about $300 you can have buy yourself one. Or you could just be smart about it, put a Beats sticker on your ear cover and use your perfectly decent ear buds to get the same sound quality. And still be the cool kid on the slopes.

GoBlog Holiday Gift Guide 2012: Steinbach Mountaineer Nutcracker Dec 17, 2012

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A Mountaineer Nutcracker? Com'on now, you know you kind of want one. A must have for the mountaineer that has everything. Get it at Eddie Bauer.

Friday Morning Time Waster: Video Of Triathletes Falling Off Their Bikes Is Totally Entertaining Dec 14, 2012

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This video of triathletes trying to crest the infamous Westernport Wall  in the Savageman Triathlon is satisfyingly amusing. But lets be honest, we probably couldn't even walk up a a 31% grade hill, let alone ride up one after swimming two miles.

GoBlog Holiday Gift Guide 2012: Black Diamond Magnetron GridLock Carabiner Dec 12, 2012

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BD's new locking carabiner, the Black Diamond Magnetron GridLock Carabiner, uses magnets instead of the rather more tedious screw down sleeve that carabiners have used for ages. Seems to be the hot item of the season for the climbing aficionado in your life. 

The most revolutionary belay carabiner in a decade.. Featuring Black Diamond's new magnetic locking mechanism, the Magnetron GridLock carabiner brings a new level of ease and safety to belay-specific carabiners. This unique gate design doesn't freeze in the winter and doesn't clog up with sand and dirt the way a screwgate does. In addition to the one-of-a-kind gate, the Magnetron GridLock also has a separated bottom and top so as to completely eliminate the chances of cross-loading, because this is one piece of gear that absolutely cannot fail. To further ensure that its safety, Black Diamond hot-forged this carabiner to make it as tough as it can be. As a final touch, this carabiner also got a keylock nose to eliminate snags when you're taking your friend off belay.

Don't Ask Google How To Lock Up Your Bike Dec 05, 2012

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Funny post on Uptown Almanac the other day featuring a flyer promoting a bike theft workshop put on by Google, SFPD (they blamed SF Bike Coalition for the silly graphic), and the SF Bike Coalition. The irony of  the flyer is that it features a bike graphic showing how to incorrectly lock up your bike to deter thieves. Mostly because it employs the use of a cable to lock both the front and back wheels. Any self respecting bike thief can easily cut through those cables with a cable cutter, so not only would you lose your front wheel, but the second most expensive part of the bike after your frame, the back wheel. We can attest to that, one of our employees' bikes was just liberated of its back tire on 5th and Market, one of the busiest, most tourist traveled locations in SF. What's the best way to lock you bike? Through the wheel and rear triangle of the bike. So says Sheldon Brown, the de facto expert of all things bicycle on the interwebs.  

GoBlog Holiday Gift Guide 2012: Moncler Puffy Blazer Dec 03, 2012

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We saw this puffy down-filled blazer from Moncler and thought it was too ridiculous to pass up. Perfect for the fur crowd at Telluride and Vail. And if you have $2,468 burning a hole in your pocket, perhaps perfect for you.

Smithsonian Sees Dead People...On Everest Nov 29, 2012

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For some reason the Smithsonian blog decided to write about all the "stiffs" left on Everest, replete with pictures and grisly details. We're guessing because it's good SEO, but maybe there is some other morbid reason they're interested in Mr. Green Boots and others that have perished on Everest. Anyway, in perusing the article we traveled over to a link on Altered Dimensions that includes even more graphic photos of those that have died on Everest and the bodies that have remained, frozen and mummified. We're not recommending you visit per se, we're just saying it's there if you want to gawk. It's rather disturbing to say the least.

GoBlog Holiday Gift Guide 2012: Burton Weekender Ski/Snowboard Socks Nov 28, 2012

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You know your significant other, male or female, will love these. Trust us on this one. Two pairs of ski/snowboard socks for $29? Com'on.

GoBlog Holiday Gift Guide: The Indomitable North Face Denali Fleece Nov 27, 2012

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Perhaps the most pervasive piece of outdoor apparel in the world, the North Face Denali fleece. It can be seen on the peaks of the Himalayas, the Alaskan backcountry, and your local Starbucks. It's literally the best selling piece of outdoor gear ever. After the shewee perhaps. Backcountry has them on sale for $59.89 with free two day shipping. Make it happen. 

Cheetahs Are Fast, Even In Slow Motion Nov 27, 2012

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From Nat Geo:

Cheetahs are the fastest runners on the planet. Combining the resources of National Geographic and the Cincinnati Zoo, and drawing on the skills of a Hollywood action movie crew, we documented these amazing cats in a way that’s never been done before.

Using a Phantom camera filming at 1200 frames per second while zooming beside a sprinting cheetah, the team captured every nuance of the cat’s movement as it reached top speeds of 60+ miles per hour.

The extraordinary footage that follows is a compilation of multiple runs by five cheetahs during three days of filming.

For more information about cheetah conservation, visit www.causeanuproar.com

Cheetahs on the Edge--Director's Cut from Gregory Wilson on Vimeo.

GoBlog Holiday Gift Guide: Folding Kayak On Kickstarter Nov 26, 2012

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For an $800 pledge you get can get this folding, origami style kayak on Kickstarter.  Slick site too, including quotes, videos, pictures, and a video. And the expected ship date is spring 2013. Pretty sweet.

The Oru Kayak is an incredible, high-performance boat that folds out of a compact case. Inspired by origami, this innovative kayak transform quickly, easily— and almost magically. Stash it in a trunk, check it on a plane, stow it aboard a sailboat, or hike it in to remote waters. It’s full size (12' long), super light (25 lbs), and quick to assemble (5 min). On the water it’s fast, stable, and handles incredibly well.

The Oru Kayak makes the wonder and discovery of the great outdoors accessible: easy foldability transforms boating from a special occasion to anytime, anywhere. 

Each Oru Kayak is engineered of a single sheet of double-layered plastic. The single seam is sealed with a watertight rubber gasket. Solid ribs offer strength and rigidity.The corrugated plastic skin is extremely tough and durable.

"A marvel of compact choreography." —Fast Company

"The Oru Kayak design is revolutionary. The boats are sturdy and incredibly light. They are as comfortable as any other sea or whitewater boat I've paddled. They track really well and turn on a dime. The maneuverability makes forward progress into a crushing headwind almost easy. The implications for urban paddlers and for remote expeditionary paddling are truly exciting."   — Greg Miller, Outdoor Filmmaker & former NOLS instructor

"It accelerates like a rocket, and carves a turn like a dream."  —Bill Vonnegut, Neptune's Rangers, professional kayak guide/instructor

"Finally, city dwellers can own a kayak that stores in a closet and travels on transit, AND still handles burly waters; plus, it's gorgeous."—Lisa Fisher, San Francisco

"It was wonderful! The Oru Kayak design felt fast and comfortable. You completely forget that it's a neatly folded piece of plastic. After kayaking around the marina and the larger waves of the San Francisco Bay, I was still completely dry without a drop of water inside the vessel."—David Lang, Make Magazine, CoFounder, OpenROV

New date for Borneo International Marathon (BIM) 2013 – 25th August May 15, 2013

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I received the email from race official last Sunday: Borneo International Marathon My dear Friends, At last, the elections are over, the nation has settled down and we have finished with the Race Committee meeting on deciding the date of BIM 2013. We have met up with the authorities, permission has been granted and the [...]
Skechers GOrun 2 review May 12, 2013

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I bought a pair of Skechers GOrun 2 running shoes in February, just after I decided to run in Borneo International Marathon this year. After few years of wearing Nike futsal shoes for running, I just felt that it’s about time for me to change to a proper running shoes for comfort and avoiding injuries. [...]
27th Mt. Kinabalu Climbathon 2013 has new routes and new challenges! Apr 22, 2013

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I think I am going to participate in this year’s Mount Kinabalu Climbathon. It’s about time for me to realize one of my dream – to run the toughest mountain climb in South East Asia. When I first climb Mount Kinabalu in 2002, I fell in love with the mountain. After 10 years of ‘procrastinating’, [...]
Kinabalu Park porter Abbie Intang lifting a water tank to Laban Rata Jan 22, 2013

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Some of you may have seen this picture somewhere on the net. I even have the photo in this blog sometime ago, without knowing the story of it at that time. Now that I have his story and the story of the photographer, I would like to share with you here. Abbie Intang - Badang [...]
26th Mount Kinabalu Climbathon 2012 has a new route! Aug 13, 2012

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The annual “World’s Toughest Mountain Race” is back with a new route. This year, it will be held on 13th and 14th October 2012. When I checked on Mount Kinabalu Climbathon’s website, I noticed that they will be using a new route – in which they will not include Low’s Peak as one of their [...]
Popular Anchor Acronyms May 20, 2013

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Over the last decade, the use of anchor acronyms has become quite popular. For awhile, it seemed like everybody had a different acronym for the "ideal" anchor. Following are a few examples of anchor acronyms:

RENE

Rumor has it that this term was initially coined by an east coast guide. As I am unable to independently verify the truth of this, I'm going to keep his name out of this blog. In any case, the preceding acronym stands for:
R - Redundant

E - Equalized
N - No
E - Extention

"Redundant" simply means that there is more than one element involved in every aspect of the system. "Equalized" means that the all the weight is evenly distributed. "No Extention" means that if one piece fails, the anchor will not shockload other parts of the system.

John Long's How to Rock Climb series added an element to the acronym. In his books he began to use SRENE. The RENE part remained the same, but he added the "S". This stood for "secure" or "strong." In other words, are all the pieces strong and secure?

The 2008 AMGA Single Pitch Instructor manual added another letter to the acronym. In this recent publication they made the acronym, SERENE. The new "E" stood for "effective;" as in, was the construction of this anchor quick? Was it well-placed? Does it do the job without too much equipment or fuss?

Popular books like Freedom of the Hills, Rock Climbing: Mastering the Basic Skills, and Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higherhave gone a completely different route. Instead of SERENE, they use ERNEST.

E - EqualizedR - Redundant
N - No
E - Extention
S - Secure/Solid
T - Timely

The only real addition to this particular acronym is the "T" for "timely" which could well equate to the "E" for "effective."

When all is said and done, it doesn't really matter which acronym you prefer. It doesn't matter as long as your anchors are RENE, SRENE, SERENE and ERNEST...

--Jason D. Martin
Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!! May 18, 2013

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This weekend's first video features the globe-trotting Dave Graham, as he hops from his projects in Colorado to other climbs around the world.  Wherever he went, the lure of these Colorado boulder problems drew him back, and was finally able to send his latest challenge, an 8c (V15) named Bridge of Ashes.



Our next video features Oli Lyon and Chris Bevins climbing through Indian Creek's splitter sandstone.



Jon Glassberg has had Leavenworth on his list of bouldering destinations for a long time, and last week he finally had a chance to come out and sample all of what Central Washington's Bavarian Village had to offer.  Sehr gut!


Washington Bouldering - Jon Glassberg from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Have a great weekend! - James
Using Your Rope in the Anchor May 17, 2013

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It's not uncommon for us to get up to an anchor point only to find that we've left our cordellete on our partner's harness or to find that it is impossible to hear. Most people will just deal with these problems without thinking outside-the-box. One outside the box thought though is to use your rope for these things.


This first photo was taken in Red Rock Canyon at the start of the "Tunnel Pitch" on Tunnel Vision (III, 5.7). If you're not familiar with this route, it is an absolutely stellar ascent. On the fourth pitch, one has the opportunity to actually climb through the mountain in a tunnel. In other words, the route requires a bit of vertical spelunking.

The top of the third pitch, at the start of the tunnel, it is difficult to see or hear the second. The route follows a corner and chimney system up the wall. In order to see my climber, I built an anchor and then, using the rope, extended the anchor to the edge where it was far less difficult to see and hear.

Some might argue that this system lacks redundancy. I'm not too worried about that as I can see the whole anchor to ensure that there is no rubbing and we never have redundancy in the rope while we're climbing with a single line...



This second picture was taken in Leavenworth, Washington on one of ourAMGA Single Pitch Instructor courses. The assignment was for the student to create a fixed line across a catwalk on the slab shown. This particular student didn't have the webbing or the cordellete to create a perfect SRENE anchor. Instead, he built a pre-equalized anchor with his rope. In this application, this worked really well.



In this picture, another Single Pitch Instructor candidate built a top-rope anchor, wrapping a rope around a boulder and tying it off with a double-bowline. In order to create some flexibility in the anchor he tied an figure-eight on a bite and clove-hitched it to the line going to the edge of his top-rope anchor.


This last picture shows a close-up of the figure-eight and the clove-hitch mentioned above.

Flexibility and thinking outside the box are two major tenants of climbing efficiency. One way to be efficient and to be flexible and to be outside-the-box is to use your rope for anchoring instead of other materials. Your rope is always on you and as such, it definitely provides an option that really shouldn't feel like it's that far out-of-the-box...

--Jason D. Martin
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 5/16/13 May 16, 2013

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Northwest:

--Glacier Creek Road, the easiest access to the N. side of Mt. Baker and the Coleman-Deming, is temporarily closed to vehicular traffic due to road damage and the potential for a full washout.  The Bellingham Herald published an article with more information on the situation.

Desert Southwest:
--Thin, scary off-width FAs are going up in the Utah desert courtesy of Pamela Pack and Patrick Kingsbury.


Notes from All Over:

--A prolific Russian mountaineer, Alexey Bolotov, died on Mt. Everest earlier this week.  He and his climbing partner, Denis Urubko, had been planning a new route up the SW face of the mountain; though details are still uncertain, it seems that Bolotov was scouting the base of the route when he was either struck by a boulder, or fell to his death when his rope frayed and separated.  Alan Arnette has gathered several perspectives regarding the incident on his blog.


--After decades of contentious negotiations on the topic, the NPS has released a final policy authorizing the use of fixed anchors in Wilderness areas.

The Access Fund's statement and analysis can be found here

A copy of the new policy can be downloaded here


--On a parallel note, the Armenian government has officially closed climbing access to the renowned basalt columns, after visiting climbers continued to ignore a bolting ban.



--Daniel Jung and the Favresse brothers put up new routes in Norway



Climbing Events May and June 2013 May 15, 2013

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5/17 - 5/19 -- New River Rendezvous

5/25 -- Yerevan, Armenia -- http://uptherocks.com/content/view/197/138/

5/30 - 6/1 -- Boulder, CO -- Climbing Wall Association Summit

2013 IFSC Calendar -- http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition

6/1 - 6/8 -- Chamonix France -- Chamonix Mountain Festival

6/22 -- Boulder, CO -- Hera Climb for Life Fundraiser
The Super Munter May 14, 2013

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In a serious rescue situation, it might be possible that you would have to lower an extreme weight down a rock face. For example, there is the possibility that you might have to lower two climbers, one cradling another one, or you might have to lower a climber and a litter. There are many ways to do this, but there is one really smooth technique.

The super-munter is a variation on the munter-hitch. It creates a tremendous amount of friction and doesn't have one of the main problems of the munter-hitch, it doesn't tangle the rope. Indeed, the action of the rope as it goes through the super-munter twists the rope and then twists it back.

Following is a short video on how to make a super-munter:


The super-munter creates a great deal of friction. I have never used this for a rescue, but occasionally I have lowered two climbers together with this who didn't feel comfortable rappelling. I've always found it to provide more than enough friction to deal with 400+ lbs of dead weight.

While it is unlikely that you will use this particular hitch very often, it is a valuable rescue tool to have in your back-pocket.

--Jason D. Martin
Ascending Systems May 13, 2013

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There are a million ascending systems out there. On this blog we have previously discussed jugging with mechanical ascenders, the prusik hitch and climbing the rope with an autoblocking device. These are all excellent techniques for climbing up a rope...but it doesn't mean that they're the only techniques.

Climbers are ultimately artists and part of the art of climbing is picking the right tool at the right time to get up or down something. As a result, the more things that you know, the more tools that you have in your toolbox. And the more things that you know, the more improvisational you can be in any type of climbing situation.

This blog will provide you with another option for climbing up a rope. To set-up this system, you will need a mechanical ascender, a GriGri and a double-shoulder length sling. The following photo shows how each of these components will be used.


Following are the steps that you will need to complete in order to make this system work:

Clip the mechanical ascender to the rope.
Clip a double-shoulder length sling to the base of the ascender. This will become your be for your foot.
Clip a carabiner to the top of the ascender, trapping the rope inside the ascender.
Run the rope through your GriGri below the ascender.
Redirect the rope from the break-hand of the GriGri up through the clip that is trapping the ascender on the rope.Once this is set-up you're ready to jug. Put your foot into the foot-sling and then stand up. Once you are standing, pull the backside of the rope through the GriGri. Sit back on the GriGri, kick you knee up to your chest and push the jug up the rope. Repeat until you're at the top.

One important thing to always remember is that you will need to tie back-up "catastrophe knots" in the rope as you climb. This should happen every ten feet or so. One should never forget to do this, as occasionally GriGris slip.

Obviously, the only way to really dial in this system is to practice it. The best way to work through this system is to print this blog out, bring it out into the field and then make it happen!

--Jason D. Martin
Glacier Climbing Etiquette May 10, 2013

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Climbing etiquette is a weird and wily thing. What is acceptable in one area may not be considered acceptable in another. What is common practice in one spot, may be looked upon with horror in another. In the larger climbing world, there are millions of etiquette questions, but on a glacier there only tends to be a few.

1) What is the etiquette for passing a rope team on a glaciated climb?

It is acceptable to pass a rope team on a glacier. However, this must be done without hindering the other team's progress that you're passing. If a team has a pace and continues to hold that pace, then they have a right to the boot-pack trail no matter how fast they're moving.


A team works its way up Mount Shuksan
Photo by Alasdair Turner

In order to pass the slower team, the faster team must step out of the boot-pack and pass the other team without slowing them in any way. This may take considerable energy if the snow outside the boot-pack is soft or deep. The passing team should not complain about having to pass as they didn't get up as early as the slower team.

If your rope team is walking in a boot-pack and needs to take a break, the polite thing to do is to step out of the trail. You should not take a break in a place that blocks others. If your team is slow and is taking a lot of standing mini-breaks (i.e. stopping for a few seconds or even a minute or so), then you should step out of the boot-pack and allow faster teams to pass in the trail without protest.

2) Who has the right to the steps that have been kicked in the slope?

There is a nice line of steps kicked into the slope going all the way up the mountain. Clearly, it is easier to use the steps that another team has put in than to create your own. As you're climbing up the mountain, you see another team descending in the steps. Their plunge-steps are completely destroying the steps as they descend. And while this may make things more difficult for your team, you didn't create the steps and as such, don't have any ownership over them.

A team camps on the Easton Glacier on Mount Baker
Photo by Alasdair Turner

If you create a series of steps up the mountain, you do have the right to use them on your descent. However, it is far more polite to leave these steps for others. I will almost universally try to leave my steps for other climbers, unless the snow is incredibly soft and difficult to move through. Occasionally, the snow is so deep that new downhill steps could cause a climber to hyper-extend his or her knee. When conditions are this severe, I use my uphill steps for downhill travel.

3) What should I do with my human waste? Should I leave it on the summit for all to see with a nice pile of toilet paper? Or should I do something else with it?

You should do something else with it.

On expeditions or on big mountains, sometimes you can put your waste in a crevasse, but you should pack out your toilet paper. On smaller glaciated peaks, you should use a Wag Bag or the equivalent and pack everything out.

If you have other etiquette questions, feel free to post them. This is such a large topic that a single Blog cannot do it justice.

--Jason D. Martin
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 5/9/13 May 09, 2013

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Northwest:
  
--The NPS has published an update regarding the sequester's impact on the Olympic National Park and its operations.

 --Join the AAC, sponsors and your fellow climbers at the 14th annual Rockfest in Leavenworth on June 15-check out the event here.





--The falcons have changed up their nesting patterns this year forcing unusual/expanded closures at Index this summer, effective through June.


--In mid April, the BLM in Idaho proposed permanently banning climbing on 400 acres of the Castle Rock Interagency Recreation Area in Idaho--a decision that would not affect the nearby City of Rocks.  More information can be found through the Access Fund here.
Sierra:

--Mono county sheriffs and SAR rescued a snowboarder injured while descending Matterhorn Peak.  More at this link.

--Yosemite NP rangers have recovered Kenneth Stensby's body, after he went missing on May 5 near Vernal Fall.  The NPS report is here.

Colorado:

--Two former engineering students are taking on a great challenge in trying to get a fully sustainable campground--the "Shelf Life Campground"-- up and running in the Shelf Road area, South of Colorado Springs.  Check out their fundraising site, or contribute your input to the project at these links:
Crowdfunding Site
The Conversation

--More on development in CO--a coalition is offering monthly seminars on responsible & sustainable trailbuilding to interested parties throughout the summer; more information will be coming here.

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